Does the uniform - with its ability to captivate a wide range of people - unite or divide individuals? Is it reassuring or troubling? The uniform blends functional and formal qualities in industrially-produced garments, offering the possibility of making people look the same, regardless of distinctions of class or demographics. Through contemporary eyes, the contributors to this volume reinterpret the uniform as a prototype of male dress, revealing the extent to which the technical and formal perfection of military clothing has become an advanced reference point for modern fashion. The analysis focuses on the communicative character of the uniform and its mythology once removed from the military context and devoured by the creative processes of fashion and the violence of all the qcounter-culturalq utopias from the postwar era to the present, or absorbed by pop culture and utilized in a critical manner by artists. Uniform unfolds in a continuous flow of images in which art, fashion, cinema, music and popular culture coexist in parallel, tangential spaces. In an operation of qcultural cannibalismq, Bonami, Frisa and Tonchi, the editors of the book, utilize and transform a wide range of materials, including fabrics, advertising, icon-garments, symbol-images, uniforms themselves, records, comics and films that document the cultural transformations and use of the uniform as an instrument of order or a subversive signal. The itinerary moves inside and outside the system and symbolism of fashion, crossing the realms of contemporary art, aesthetics and pop culture. The book, conceptualized and promoted by Pitti Immagine, contains a striking selection of images and texts with different, detailed and complementary approaches to the theme by scholars, writers and journalists.Valerie Steele, who is now the head of the Fashion Institute of Technologya#39;s costume museum, wrote an article for the April 1991 Lingua Franca, which has been an enduring example, for me, of the power of fashion and the inability for anyone to avoid its codes. Her piece was ... Dr. Steele humorously called fashion aquot;the F-Wordaquot; in her essay, because academics found it such an obscene topic. The onlyanbsp;...
|Title||:||Uniforme. Ordine E Disordine 1950-2000. Catalogo Della Mostra (Firenze, 11 Gennaio-18 Febbraio 2001). Ediz. Inglese|
|Author||:||Francesco Bonami, Maria Luisa Frisa, Stefano Tonchi|